Sunday afternoon, post a rather traumatic but survivable morning…met with Diana for some sharing of our morning escapades and then we were off to follow a bit more of Cezanne…his studio (one of them) and then, with a little hoof up the hill, another site where he painted, with a great view of Sainte Victoire! Diana was determined to see it in it’s glory…..I had viewed it earlier but never satiated, always new and different perspectives. Another beautiful afternoon with not much of a “Mistral”. I’m living a bit of history in an artist’s surroundings. To see his props, his “accoutrements” that were painted on very notable pieces of work, brings it all to life…and I’m here for the experience! Sounds a bit melodramatic, but it is more humbling to step back in history. It was great to be able to share with another that felt as passionate as I did…..but didn’t realize just how I’d relate….my inner artist is waking up! 

We made our way back to the center of town, shared more tales over some wine and a bite…and then we parted ways…I had made a new friend and hope we will meet again. I think it is in our cards as such!

Tackling a weekend after an eventful week…pulling out my tour books for ideas. I try to do one outing a day with mission and otherwise I wing it. For one that might be considered a planned activist this goes against my grain, I’ve always been a “list ” person….having been trained by some of the best….this is a new feeling that I have to find comfort in. That being said…so begins my weekend.

A leisurely Saturday with a walk to the tourist office to confirm a couple of tours and away I go to the Bastide du Jas de Bouffan. This is the Summer house for Cezanne where on the main floor, in the salon, he painted 12 murals directly on the walls (they have been carefully removed and restored at various galleries) and the grounds were used as subjects in many of his paintings. It’s surreal to walk among the gardens and view the painting displays knowing where Cezanne set his easel to begin. It was here that I was befriended by a very attractive, elegant woman who shared an enthusiasm for art, Diana. She was also traveling solo and was quite comfortable with this…stories from all around the globe and we had an enjoyable promenade (probably should’ve taken the bus…not too scenic) back to Cours Mirabeau for additional chatting, sharing experiences and a glass of wine at Les Deux Garcons. We agreed to return after our plans for our respective Sundays for continuation of sharing a bit of Cezanne. 

Here’s a quick summary of my Sunday prior to meeting up with Diana…..I became stranded in the mountain region after taking a taxi to the wrong area to meet a tour (no buses on Sundays…note to self before scheduling another Sunday activity….DON’T). I was at the entrance to the quarry where Cezanne was inspired by cubism…but I never found the rest of the tour (if there even was one) at Carrieres be Bibemus. I found a rock near the gathering place as stated by the posted sign…and waited. There were many hikers, bikers and families with dogs that passed me on their Sunday outings. Often a “bonjour” was exchanged but, here lies that difficulty in conversing. I called my friend Emily…not knowing what I might do…but she was 45 minutes away…and probably at church! I think just the friendly voice with a moment of laughter averted a sense of panic and her suggestion was to make a French friend to come to my aide! I decided to begin hiking to see where all the people were headed and let the adventure proceed. Not too far into this, I was befriended by Anne and Xavier (if I have remembered mistakenly, please forgive me!) with their daughter and 3 dogs. They were happy to practice their English and we proceeded on a delightful 2 hour hike. Returning from this trek, they offered to drive me home. I am forever indebted to them and I enjoyed our conversations. They are delightful! I only wish I could’ve been able to get the information off my phone (that’s another challenge) that they texted me to once again thank them for their graciousness. 

 

Enough for one blog entry…more to come

I guess I will start where I left off, although I have more to tell you about today and my challenges, but I can say that they have been conquered and am here to bask in the glow of French aide and hospitality. These feelings are coming back to me now from my days of travelling when I was much younger, and this world is a friendly place.

The weekend is coming to a close, so I need to start with Friday and my cooking experience with Gilles Conchy. This was a cooking class I had read about through the Tourist Information Office, where you would cook a French Provencial meal with others and enjoy the fruits of your labor. And, that we did! 

First after introductions, we were off to the outdoor market to purchase the items for our menu for le repas (the meal). Just a bit of a reminder, having been a vegetarian for over 45 years, I wasn’t going to influence the choice of menu for the group. I went along with a variety of appetizers, tapenade, eggplant spread  with garlic over toasted bread/crostinis, and onion tartlets with an arugala salad on the side. The entree was a rack of lamb smothered with an anchovy and butter paste, fingerling potatoes with a casserole (have to throw in that French accent) of round zucchini, sliced, with thinly sliced onions and tomatoes, generously drizzled in olive oil. s&p. garlic….garlic in everything…and thyme from Gille’s garden (thanks Eric for tending to this task so completely). Dessert would be an apple tart. So, shopping on! Here are some photos and those that know me, I’m outside my box when we went to the Charcuterie.

 

Purchases made and we were off in a snug car for all of us, but large by French standards and perfectly adequate! We stopped along the way at Chateau Simone for our wine selection for the day. with the Saint Victoire in the distant, we arrived for a quick tour/selection and off we go…..the caves/cellars were built by monks in the 16th century..

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So, now onto the Chateau de Gilles! He put us all to work. Enjoyed every minute of it and we worked together as a fine-tuned team with Gilles as our commander in chief! It was great!

Timing was perfect and everything was delicious…and I have to say, I even had a couple of bites of lamb….if only for the experience. It’s not changing my dietary preferences…but I know many of you are floored that I ate lamb! As I say…this is an adventure!

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Forecast: rain, and I look out at the drizzle and wonder if I’ll make it out today. Clouds are shades of gray (no pun intended) and beg me to settle down for the day and perhaps go through some video on conversational French in preparation for my intense 2-week class, en Francais, beginning 23, May. I might even watch an episode of “Frankie and Grace” for some humor and then perhaps “The Outlander” for entertainment…thanks to Netfix and Jillers. I have really been out of touch re: news from home, but I’m not feeling deprived. I’m having some angst for sitting still while here but I have to remind myself of the length of my stay, and then I’m grateful that I can spend a day of rest. 

It also gives me a chance to expound on Monday’s tour of the Luberon. I think I just left while still in Ansouis. Another 20 minute drive and we were in Lourmarin. It was quiet here also (the bustling market takes place on Fridays) and with the clouds overhead it added to the charm of being in Provence.

Author Peter Mayle has moved to Lourmarin not long ago. A Renaissance chateau also is situated on the outskirts of the town.

Our next stop was so perfect for the end of the day…watching a hunt for the elusive truffle at a working organic vineyard, olive farm and now as a truffle locale and their efforts to maintain the continuation of truffle cultivation which this is a perfect locale to attempt to keep the production going. So much depends on Mother Nature. 

The farm is owned by Lisa and Johann Pepin…gracious hosts and guide. Their partner and dog owner, Jean Michel, arrived with the working “duo” a shitzu/dacshund  mix and a lab/collie pup that has been trained specifically to hunt truffle scent and dig them up carefully with Jean Michel. Pigs also can pick up the scent but they like to consume the prize truffle. There is quite a science to all this but it was fascinating to watch on many levels!

After a tour of the farm…oak trees, hazelnut, olive trees, vineyards, wild herbs, bee hives and general incredible views, we ventured to their home and on their back patio I had my first taste of true truffle….incredible is all I have to say! They do make a truffle oil that holds that taste and aroma….the truffle themselves are short in life span for incredible taste. I just have to say that this was a taste experience that will go down as tops in my book!

Thank you Emily Durand for arranging this tour. Five-star!

The skies were threatening rain, winds were once again blowing through the greens on Springtime trees, but it only added to the anticipation of the upcoming adventure that was planned by Emily Durand of “Your Private Provence”. I was fortunate to be included, as a portion of the tour required two adult participants….more on that later. So, I proceeded to a different section of town, I’m just scratching the surface of the surrounding town. Walking into a hotel, it took me back when I traveled so long ago as a student…the comfort of the lobby but knowing I wasn’t a patron and just wanting to have others to validate my reason for being there. I’m so easily intimidated but sat and waited for our guide,  and her other clients…a mother and 9- year old daughter from Oman on a vacation to Provence. Introductions made and we were off for our Luberon excursion. 

First stop in the Southern Luberon, a quaint Provencial town of Ansouis. There’s a privately owned castle here with a church located on the highest point of the city. I do believe Pierre Cardin (once again, note I’m listening and retaining information from Emily) was in the bidding process for said castle, but was it awarded to another who now will make personal tours when requested on certain days. I’m sure you will hear it often from me on this journey…it was almost magical/surreal to be in these surroundings! It’s a quiet little town but noted there is a MIchelin rated restaurant here, for whatever that means.

I loved the hues of color on the shutters….green, blues and terra cotta amongst the rock walls and cobblestone streets….which was created in a snail pattern, but I would’ve gotten lost just the same! We were trying to find the fields of red poppies but they were somewhat hidden amongst the growing grasses…they could be seen if we were vieiwng from a bird’s eye view (or perhaps, just a street above the valley floor on our way up to the castle). Give these flowers  another week or two and they will be presented in grand form.